Monday, November 29, 2010

Just Taking it Easy...

It has been a week since my return. My timing was terrible (that's not exactly the word that went through my mind, but this is a “family friendly” blog). Somehow I had forgotten that it was Labor Day weekend, in both the U.S. and Canada (though there it was Labour Day). And I probably should also have looked a little closer at the map for a different port of entry... getting onto I-5 after crossing into the States was not a good decision on my part.

After I left Hope on Friday morning (September 3rd) there was a considerable amount of traffic on Highway One – it did, after all, go to Vancouver. It may see strange, but I was totally unprepared, psychologically, for all of the businesses and the stores and the amount of traffic on Interstate Five! It wasn't exactly culture-shock, more like sensory overload. Too much all at once. It didn't take long before my nerves were shot!

Almost on the verge of Panic, I exited onto the first highway I saw that would take me away from there – Washington State Road 20. I got through the heaviest traffic area and on past Sedro Woolley. The first State Park that I came to had a “Campground Full” sign, the second park was closed, the third one didn't have a campground. Not good. Then I got to the little town of Rockport. And they have a Municipal Park with a beautiful campground along the river. All of the RV sites were taken but there were still a few tent sites available. Lucky me! It was early afternoon but I stopped for the night anyway. No telling what, if anything, would be available on down the road. It took a while for my nerves to get settled. A nice hot shower helped immensely as did sitting down by the river and watching the water flow by.

Saturday morning, looking at the map, I realized that if I continued east on State Route 20, I'd be going through the Cascade Mountain Range and through the middle of North Cascades National Park. Neither of which would be bad, by any means, but I needed internet access and/or a cell phone signal. So it was back towards Sedro Woolley.

With my errands completed, and because the clouds had blocked out the sun, I decided to go south a short ways on I-5 to Everett and pick up U.S. Route 2, which is a scenic highway through the southern Cascades and Wenatchee Mountains. When I got over Thompson Pass, the clouds disappeared and I saw sunshine and blue skies once again. It was a beautiful drive though I took no pictures to prove it! The landscape changed as I drove east on the other side of the mountains. Fewer trees, brown hillsides, open vistas.

Near Wenatchee U.S. 2 joins up with U.S. 97 and turns north, following the Columbia River, so I did too. Highways run along both sides of the river, I stayed on the west side on the “alternate” route and stopped at the small town of Entiat where there was a municipal park and campground alongside the river. It was almost perfect. Large trees shaded the campground and dotted the riverside. Two nights I spent there, soaking up the sunshine and basking in the warm temperatures (low 70s) and light breeze, generally just taking it easy.

The view from my campsite, looking northeast.
Looking southeast.
From the north side of the park, looking toward the west. The campground was nestled amongst the trees on the western shore.

Garden-worthy native

I love this selection of Coneflower, Echinacea paradoxa x purpurea. Given the cultivar name, 'Paranoia,' this plant has strappy yellow petals that arch down from the central cone. I think it would look great planted with a native grass like Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris).
Or you could plant a mass of these Coneflowers near a native Trumpet Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera sempervirens) for a beautiful combination.
Unlike the invasive Japanese Honeysuckle, this vine behaves itself and nicely contributes to the local ecosystem. The rich red flowers attract the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird* and is a larval plant for the Spring Azure Butterfly.

Ozark Coneflower seems to be taller than Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), so plan accordingly. Parson's Nursery in Georgetown, South Carolina sells this selection (wholesale only).
____________________________________
*When I worked at Carolina Nurseries, we used to grow this plant by the hundreds (if not thousands). When they flowered, I would stand in the middle of the field and watch 30-50 hummigbirds at a time zoom from flower to flower and fight for territory. It was amazing to be that close to so many birds. They were so engrossed with the flowers that they didn't notice me there at all.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Morning Sunrays
































Baxter Springs

The first stop in Kansas was the Johnston Public Library in Baxter Springs, Cherokee County. Apparently an index to the cemetery hasn't been published, at least the girl at the reference desk didn't know anything about it. She did give me directions to the cemetery though.



Gravesite of Jacob Henry Parkison and Roxie Arminta Joslin Parkison at Baxter Springs Cemetery, Cherokee County, Kansas. Jacob is a half-brother of my 2nd Great Grandfather William Brubaker and Roxie is a sister of my 2nd Great Grandmother Malissa Joslin Brubaker Bower.



The marker for Jacob and Roxie is in the lower right corner. Several of their children and grandchildren are buried in rows to the north of Jacob and Roxie. It is quite a large cemetery and it took about an hour to find their graves. I'm really glad it turned out to be a nice day!

Assateague Island :: The Beach

Seeing these hoof prints in the sand gave me hope that I'd actually see the "wild" ponies on the beach.


But those tracks were from horses brought in by some campers. The big black ones are Percheron horses. Really big ones.



Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Rowdy Hotel Guests

Photo of old ship's bell on the warf in a small park.


After deciding to spend the night in Port Angeles we had a bit of trouble finding a hotel. We finally did and it was a nice hotel, or would have been if it hadn't been for the other guests being so rowdy, noisy, and just down right rude. My thanks to the hotel staff that did their best to keep an obnoxious bunch of boys under control when the chaperons of the boys decided to let them take over the hotel. I think they were a group of some sort of ball players - baseball, basketball, football- who knows. I'm not good at ballgame sports. My son was into cars, horses, and snowmobiles. The boys took over the swimming pool (which was fine, boys do need to run off excess energy) but they then decided to try to run all the adults out of the hot tub. That was just down right rude. And their chaperons didn't seem to care. Thankfully someone complained to the manager who made them get out, but as soon as it would be empty, in they would go again, not allowing any adults time in the hot tub. These same hooligans played ball in the parking lot, throwing balls against other peoples cars, and the next morning at the breakfast bar they tried to take everything offered by the hotel, not allowing other guests to have their share. Again,my thanks to the hotel staff for doing the best they could under these circumstances. We did have a nice room with comfortable beds and got a good nights sleep.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Blowin' in the Wind

For much of the past week the winds have been blowing in West Texas and Eastern New Mexico. On Sunday (April 10th), after wandering in the dry, arid desert, fighting the 25-35 mph winds (with gusts up to 60mph), seeing nothing but brown earth and beige colored skies, I did an “about face” and headed eastward.



Yes, I know. That's the opposite direction I've been going. But there is another reason for the about face – a doctor's appointment awaits me in Indiana in less than two weeks. It is one that was made in February as a follow-up to the sinus and ear infection I had after Mom's funeral and an appointment which I never canceled. So I knew that if I was going to keep it, I didn't want to get too far west and have a really long drive back. The wind, the brownness, and the wind were just the things that turned me back a little sooner than anticipated.



I had thought about canceling the doctor's appointment, but with the way my leg has been acting up, figured I had better take advantage of it to find out what is going on. I think it is just a pulled muscle, but who knows?



I will admit, I terribly missed the green that I left behind a week ago. I'm not sure why the desert conditions bothered me so easily this time. Last year I spent more than two months in Texas, Arizona and the deserts of California. Perhaps it was a part of my state of mind this time around – thinking a lot (too much) about my Aunt Phyllis, my Mother, and my friend Lorene. Realizing that I will never see them again...



So, I'm going back to Indiana. At least for as long as it takes to find out about what is going on with the leg. And then? Well, I'll let you know when I know! But "The Journey" isn't over yet!





Brantley Lake State Park, New Mexico. April 7th.



Driving conditions east of Amarillo on Sunday, April 10th. The sky was really much more beige colored than gray as this photo shows. This was typical of the drive on Sunday. I was just glad I was going east – the wind was coming from the west. The hundred miles or so that I had to drive north was a real challenge!





Great Plains State Park April 10th. Compliments of Mother Nature throwing a hissy fit – the sand and dust in the air makes for a great sunset filter!





Great Plains State Park April 10th. In southwestern Oklahoma on the shore of Lake Tom Steed, a reservoir that provides water for the area.



Sunday, November 21, 2010

Green Giant Buttress Dreamer ..

Finally, our schedules and weather cooperated to let Steve and I climb together. Since it was early October, and the snow level was around 5000' most of the week, we decided alpine options would be a little cold and snowy (for rock climbing.) We made the decision Thursday night to make an attempt at Dreamer (5.9) on Green Giant Buttress.

Temps were hovering around freezing as we made the drive out to Darrington Saturday morning. The drive in is pretty straight forward. Although with a standard sedan, you may wish to stop earlier than Steve and I. (We bottomed the car on rocks a few times.) A high clearance 4WD could get even further than we did. Our driving progress stopped at a slight pullout on the left of the road just before a ditch.

We started hiking the road and after a 1/4 mile came to the point all vehicles would have to stop. Brush got thicker, but it was never that much of a bushwhack. Beta for the approach was accurate, and after some point in time we were near old mining debris and crossing the "braided stream." This is where is got slightly tricky. We approached the base of the "three tiered waterfall" as described in the approach. There was a very faint trail through serious vegetation right at the base of the falls. It did not look easily passable. So Steve and I hiked up a slippery slab at the first tier of the waterfall and found a more suitable looking path. We did a not so fun bushwhack up this path for about 10 minutes until it became a dead end. We hiked back down and found the correct bushwhack start from the falls. Which was at the base of the slab we climbed. It is currently marked by a log going up from the water into the bushes.

Once we found the correct drainage, things started going more smoothly. A bit of bushwhacking and we were back to homo erectus. Now on semi-wet slabs scrambling up the drainage. Near the top of the drainage we had a choice, go right up something that looked like the side of a moraine (Rock loosely embedded in dirt.) or go up a "path" to the left. We wrongly chose path. If we had looked at the beta, we would have correctly gone right and taken less time and danger to reach the base of the route, but instead this is what followed:

Photo by Steve Machuga.

We scrambled 3rd and 4th class slabs for a bit. (And possibly some 5th class moves.) We even got out the rope at one point. Then the rock eased a bit, and we were finally near the base, where another party had left a pack. We geared up and from what I can tell, scrambled some 4th or 5th class up to the base. (Actually we got the rope out again for the final bit to the base.) At this point it was close to five hours since we left the car.

I led out on the first pitch, and according to Nelson's topo, combined it with the second pitch. From where we started, we were just shy of a full rope length, so there was about 15' of simul-climbing that Steve and I had to do to reach the anchor. Because I am blind, I totally missed the three bolt anchor and slung a bush and brought Steve up.

Steve started out on the next pitch, which looked too run-out for my taste. (Once again, we couldn't see bolts correctly and this pitch was somewhat off-route.) This pitch is supposed to go right and then up, but the bolts we could see were directly up and then far right. It wasn't until it was too late to turn around that we saw the bolt directly right of the belay, and the line of bolts leading up below the bolt we "aimed" for. Steve felt "our" variation was in the 5.10a land. This wouldn't surprise me, as the first bolt he clipped was on the Urban Bypass, which I believe goes at 10a. He made a scary run-out traverse over dirty rock to reach the next bolt. (No pics, as I was watching him closely.) I followed up behind, taking what may have been a slightly easier path.

We got to the next pitch where I led off on somewhat run-out knobby slab. The climbing was enjoyable and got the heart beating a bit. Steve led up the next pitch which had some awkward moves up what was called a 5.7 corner. The pitch was fun and ending in the most comfortable belay stance since the top of the first pitch. Steve led out on the next pitch which is the one Dreamer is known for. It starts in a shallow corner with easier climbing. It then goes to the top of a pillar, where a bolt is clipped. Then traverses right with no protection up to the bottom of a large flake. Then a 5.9 traverse back left and over the flake to enter "The Blue Crack." An awkward, 5.9 flake/crack that brings you up to the next hanging belay. Steve led it in fine style. I got cold at the belay as the sun went behind the ridge. I was getting tired and I think the cold I was getting all week finally was getting the upper hand. I followed behind, but felt really tired. (I also hadn't eaten a lunch yet.) I took a fall midway through the 5.9 traverse. Regained my composure, but had to struggle the rest of the way up the pitch. At the top, I asked Steve what time it was, and he said 4:30pm. I told him we had two hours of daylight, and it was in our best interest to descend.

This turned out to be a wise decision, as we had minor difficulties rapping with daylight. (One rap left Steve 15' shy of the anchor, and I had to lower him.) I had to make an intermediate stop to make sure I would reach the next anchor. On the last two raps, the other party reached us, and we shared their ropes for the final raps. I was a little slow packing up, and we lost them going into the bushwhack. We turned on our headlamps and headed downhill. Steve and I then proceeded to march around (through?) vine maples for what seemed an eternity before we regained the gully where we should have left it in the morning. The rest of the scramble/swhack/hike out was uneventful, but all by headlamp.

Overall, the climbing on Dreamer is a step up from what I am used to doing. I think my difficulties with the 5.9 pitch were more due to fatigue than my climbing ability, but I will most likely have to wait until next year to tackle that climb again.

Pics are located here.
(I included Steve's pics as well.)

Friday, November 19, 2010

Update from Salt Lake City :: One Month

Yep! A month ago today I arrived in Salt Lake City. The time has literally flown by. A lot has been accomplished – over 300 microfilms and 40 books (and 1 microfiche) have been pulled and viewed. Of course some of them only for a few minutes and others for a longer period of time, depending upon what the film contained. It's been exhilarating and exasperating – depending upon what was found or not found.



Various documents (wills, estate records, deed records, tax records, baptism records, etc.) on 25 different surnames – not all types of documents for every surname, more on some than others, but something for each surname. Some things were expected (I “knew” about them) but some new things have been found too. I'm at the point now where the “low hanging fruit” has been obtained and will be entering “new” territory next week, exploring surnames and locations that I've not done much research on previously.



One of the earliest documents found is the 1739 Land Warrant issued to Andreas Brinker. Born on July 9, 1699 in Rümikon-Elsau, Zürich, Switzerland as Andreas Brungger, he was married to Regula Hester in 1721 and they had six children, five of whom were born in Swizerland. On June 28, 1735 Andreas and his family arrived in Philadelphia onboard the ship “Mary” having sailed from Liverpool, England. They settled in Saucon, Bucks County in what would become Lower Saucon Township, Northampton County, Pennsylvania. Andreas and Regula are my 7th great grandparents.





Land Warrant of Andreas Brinker, Bucks County, Pennsylvania. Family History Library microfilm 021686 scanned November 1, ...

By the Proprietaries.

Pennsylvania, SS. Whereas Andreas Brinker of the County of Bucks hath requested that We would allow him to take up Fifty acres of Land Situate between to Hills adjoining George Hertzley at Sacoon in the said County of Bucks for which he agrees to pay to our Use, within the Term of six Months from the Date hereof, at the Rate of Fifteen Pounds Ten Shillings, current Money of this Province, for every Hundred Acres; and also to pay the yearly Quit-rent of one Half-penny Sterling for every Acre thereof, to us, our Heirs and Assigns for ever: These are there to authorize and require you to survey, or cause to be surveyed unto the said Andreas Brinker at the Place aforesaid, according to the Method of Townships appointed, the said Quantity of Fifty Acres, if not already surveyed or appropriated, and make Return thereof into the Secretary's Office, in order for Confirmation; for which this shall be your sufficient Warrant: Which Warrant and Survey, in case the said Andreas Brinker fulfil the above Agreement within six Months from the Date hereof, shall be valid, otherwise void. Given under my Hand, and the Seal of the Land-Office, by Virtue of certain Powers from the said Proprietaries, at Philadelphia, this Fifth Day of March Anno Domini One Thousand Seven Hundred and thirty nine. Signed Thos Penn



To Benj Eastburn, Surveyor General.
[Written on the left side]

To George Palmer DS

Execute this and make Return of Survey into the Surv Gen'l office as Soon as possible.

for John Sukins Esq

Edw Lynch


Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Doggie In the Flowers


Tuffee walked through the field of lupines

Antoine !

He's funny. I think. I'm nevercompletely sure.

He carries monumental loads of gear up to the crag, a huge BD pig full of bolting gear, music, stove, hammock, ropes and croissants.

He elegant, he's strong, he's ever so stylish.Don't hate him cause he's beautiful.







Antoine clips the first of a dense cluster of quickdraws.









That is a whole lotta muscle coming up that cliff underneath me. Twin chalk bags, big guns, odd shoes.

















We talk and talk, then Antoine will say "enough philosophy, let's climb"









Belayers beware. The Big Frenchman likes skinny ropes and roller biners. When he comes off it's like a bison comingatcha.













What are the odds hey.jjobrienclimbing had the lens open at the exact moment Antoine released his energy burst.Lucky I was at a safe distance.









Antoine wears: soft shell by Mountain HardwearAgriculturalists cap by John Deer

The annual Coolum "Sendfest" is the biggest event on The Cave calender and isthe brainchild of Antoine Moussette. Antoine keeps the score.

Points are assigned to the each climber on the basis of.... or maybe get added to the crag score or....... or something about acumulative something...



I really don't get it, but jeez it's fun. We climb, and Antoine and I drink a lot of chai and coffee.





He claims to be from Quebec. But he sounds French to me.






Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Picacho Peak State Park

Located forty miles north of Tucson, just off of Interstate 10, Picacho Peak State Park is where I spent the night after my brief visit to Saguaro National Park. It is a lovely place but I was most delighted to find that it had showers! With hot water! Heavenly.

The peak for which the park is named, Picacho. The description of the trail to the top was listed as strenuous. Having driven most of the day and arriving just an hour before sunset, I didn't quite feel up to a strenuous hike. I did take a little walk around the campground though.


Photographs taken on March 15, ...

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Wordless Wednesday :: Late Afternoon Peak

South of Death Valley National Park, Dante's Peak (I think). May 1979.Copyright © 1979/.. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Sunset Park

Very short wander to this viewpoint






Straight down to the water





From a little higher





Manhattan in the misty distance





A local denizen

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Morning Glory Peek-A-Boo


How will climate change affect our National Parks?

The topic of climate change took exceptional relevance here at Mount Rainier after the floods and wind in November of 2006 caused significant damage throughout the park(check out the Mt. Rainier N.P. report documenting the flood's damage), forcing our gates to close. This was not the first storm that hit this park hard, nor will it be the last. There is a high likelihood that future storms will cause similar damage (if not worse) and climate change will have as-of-yet even greater undetermined impacts on the park's resources. The result of this event and uncertainty brings into question the ability of the federal government to sustain long term access to places such as Mount Rainier from an economic and ecological standpoint. Obviously, this issue has implications for us all - recreationalists, admirers, climbers, skiiers, and just anyone living in a town near the park.

How will climate change affect Mount Rainier National Park? Well, this is the question that many are beginning to ask. You can be a part of this discussion on Wednesday, September 3, along with a panel of experts in climate change, outdoor recreation, economics, wildlife and roads and trail construction (among others). The evening's event, co-hosted by the Washington Parks and Forests Coalition, is titled, "The Way In: The Future of Access to Northwest National Parks". Panelists will focus on global climate change and how it will affect our national parks, especially Olympic, Mount Rainier, and North Cascades National Parks. This panel discussion is free and open to the public.

This event is co-hosted by the organizations from the Washington Parks and Forests Coalition, which include National Parks Conservation Association, Washington Trails Association, and the Student Conservation Association. For more information, contact David Graves at dgraves@npca.org or 206.903.1444 x25.